Review: Glovers Station Elsternwick

Originally published on Concrete Playground.

We wouldn’t put it past experienced hospo hands Mary-Jane Daffy and Jim Marinis to convert an old Tudor-styled mechanics shed into a cafe — oh wait, they already have. Glovers Station is Elsternwick’s new go-to brunch hub, offering an impeccable menu with an exquisite fit out to match. The menu at Glovers Station is unconventional. Don’t expect to find your classic smashed avocado on toast, which is seriously despised by business partner and head chef Brett Hobbs. Brett, who worked under the eye of Gordon Ramsay, endeavours to bring unexpected combinations to his clientele. The mushrooms on toast with puffed wild rice and grapes ($17) initially sounds bizarre, but is a proven favourite. The menu’s eccentricity is probably why it stands out in the suburb of Elsternwick. The cafe refuses to restrict itself in solely catering for its surroundings. “We have created a cafe for Melbourne, not just this area,” Brett says. There comes a time where you have to stop drenching the paper menu from salivation and physically order. Trying the braised ox tongue on toast with burnt onion puree, mustard butter, pickles and chilli fried eggs ($16) is a wise move. One of Brett’s latest creations is the pressed lamb shoulder with pumpkin jam, barley, pea and a variation of cauliflower salad ($18). And if you’re seeking something a bit more dainty, look no further than the leatherwood honey yoghurt with poached seasonal fruits, topped with a nut and oat meringue ($13). Now, let’s get to the caffeine side of things: coffee connoisseurs shouldn’t worry, Glovers use Dukes Coffee Roasters’ seasonal blend to complement their food offering. Chefs must be methodical when composing a menu, and the minds behind Glovers Station have changed their menu four times in the last eight weeks alone. It seems adaptation has played a substantial role in their success. During a tedious planning period, dishes were categorised into ‘female’ and ‘male’. As such, the team strives to achieve balance between the two, to satisfy both ends of the taste spectrum. As soon as a liquor licence is attained, there is no stopping dinner plans from charging ahead. But the owners are keeping the menu as a surprise — they’re treat them mean, keep ‘em keen kind of folk — but it was emphasised that sharing dishes would act as the menu’s core. A hefty yet welcoming establishment, treating yourself to a morning or afternoon at Glovers Station will leave you feeling revived. This is one station you’ll never want to depart from.

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